Small-Boat Fishing Outriggers

Small-Boat Fishing Outriggers

The whole point of outriggers is to spread your baits out behind you, keeping them far enough apart so they don't tangle in a turn or seaway and to keep them individually visible to predators that look up at them from below. But before you blithely go out and purchase outriggers, evaluate your fishing style. Can you get away with just adding a few rod holders - perhaps ones that mount at right angles to the centerline of your boat? If you add to that a rod holder on centerline on the transom or T-top, you may be able to get almost the same effect. No? Then here's what you need to know to choose and install the correct outriggers for your boat.

Choosing Poles
Telescoping outrigger poles have enjoyed enormous growth in popularity over the past several years, especially among boaters who store their boats in a dry stack, regularly trailer their boats or run across the ocean at exceptionally high speeds. The ability to shorten those poles (making them stronger at the same time) adds dramatically to their longevity in these particular ­circumstances. But you can mount them in any base you choose.

Fixed-length poles are durable and stiffer than telescoping models, and they're less expensive as well.

Ron Karpanty, vice president of Rupp Marine (one of the more ubiquitous brands), offers a rule of thumb for determining what length non-telescoping pole you need: "When installed, the pole ends shouldn't extend much past the transom or back of the engines. For those selecting telescoping rigger poles, the length becomes less of an issue since they'll be collapsed when not fishing."

However, telescoping poles should be sturdy. "Consider only telescoping poles with a base diameter of 1½ inches or more," Karpanty says. "Anything less is too flimsy and won't last. If you're going to spend the money for telescoping poles, spend a little extra and buy good ones."

Most outriggers today - both fixed and telescoping - are made from aluminum extrusions. Fixed poles sometimes come with steel cable-support stays for additional longitudinal stiffness, though that's rare on small boats. Carbon fiber has recently made great inroads into the gunwale-mount-outrigger market thanks to its light weight.

Mounting Styles
Gunwale-mount outriggers probably satisfy the needs for the smallest boats in the sport-fishing stable. Gunwale mounts feature a rod-holder-style receptacle that holds the poles upright, turns them outboard for deployment and then locks them. A small regular or jam cleat on the outrigger pole itself fixes the rigger line; I've never seen this style of outrigger with more than one rigger line.

Though gunwale riggers are available in aluminum, many anglers purchase carbon-fiber poles for superior strength without the hernia-inducing weight. The main shortcoming of this style: It's on the gunwale, which makes working the full length of the boat somewhat problematic.

T-top- or hardtop-mounted riggers are by far the most common style for center-consoles. These riggers pivot via a sleeve, lock in place and come in several compositions and configurations.

Most often, the poles raise and lower at a friction hinge to allow the boat to pass under marginal bridge clearances. These vertical adjustments may be made by hand or by using optional electric or hydraulic systems. Tigress makes electric-deployment models, and E-Tec offers mechanical worm-gear models that are adjustable with an old-fashioned car-window-type handle.

The only downside to T-top mounts can be accessibility. Shorter anglers may need to stand on something to reach the rigger lines. However, on the plus side, top mounts keep riggers, lines and everything else out of the way, allowing you to fish stem to stern unimpeded.

For most boats with T-tops, Karpanty recommends "a premium outrigger base with either a 15- or 18-foot telescoping pole. Telescoping poles are well worth the money for those who want the ability to easily remove and store their outrigger poles." An older outrigger style called a wishbone rigger is most commonly seen on cabin-sided boats such as walkarounds, expresses and convertibles. While certainly strong, they effectively block the walkway between the bow and stern when deployed.

Some of those larger vessels may also sport side-mount riggers, consisting of a front and back leg, with the pole extending from the front leg. A recent intro to the fishing market, side riggers mount in their own integral rod holders and cost the least of all styles. These 7½-foot telescoping removable poles keep your lines close to the water's surface yet as far from the hull as a 15-foot overhead rigger, according to company claims. Pole elevation adjusts from -20 degrees upward to 90 degrees for optimum bait placement.

Rigging Assistance
You can find superb diagrams and instructions on how to rig outrigger poles online. Single-line installations - found on most small boats - don't take an engineering degree.

First, choose between an AFTCO roller clip or Black's release clip to hold your fishing lines. Thread the heavy mono (commonly 400-pound-test) through the eyes on the pole, or lash glass rings to the eyes with waxed thread and run the mono through those as guides.

The boat end of the installation should include a pulley attached to a bungee cord or thin braided Dacron line run to a cleat. Some anglers find that locking pulleys work well to keep the rigger line from slipping, but they cost more.

Multiple lines should be set up ­similarly, but with a double pulley at the bottom. I have found that making the two rigger lines different colors really helps me avoid ­confusion in the heat of the moment.

In both cases, when rigging a T-top installation, set it up to avoid bringing the rigger line down to the gunwale, which defeats the all-around fishability benefit of such outrigger designs.

No matter what size boat you have, there's a way to troll a well-separated spread that will fit your budget. © 2020